Wood crown molding is expensive, and not everyone can afford to blow
such a significant amount of money on wood crown molding for their
homes.
Honestly, that is why I ended up going with a polyurethane crown molding to finish my bathroom with. Not only was it cheaper, but I had such a large selection of molding designs that there was no way I was turning back and going with a more bland cut section of wood. Not when I could save a ton of money, and get a detailed look that seemed far more classy than wood had to offer.
Working with poly crown molding is also a heck of a lot easier, and there is no nailing required at all. If you buy yourself corner blocks for the room as well, you can eliminate any difficult 45 degree angle miter cuts. This is exactly what I did, and putting the molding up too less than an hour.
So you are likely thinking of doing the same thing, otherwise why would you be here?
Here is what you will need in order to install your polyurethane crown molding:
You will need a tape measure
You will need Spackle
You will need Caulk
You will need a Spackle knife
You will need Loctite Power Grab Adhesive
You will need a caulking gun (to be used for your power grab adhesive tube)
You will need corner blocks to eliminate miter cuts and save yourself the need to have to cut the molding in a 45 degree angle.
You will need some painters tape
You will need a hacksaw with a thin blade
How to Install:
First and foremost you will want to install your wall corner blocks. You can purchase low priced polyurethane corner blocks online. Make sure you buy enough to add to each corner. Count your interior corners, and exterior corners in order to ensure you have enough blocks.
Install the corner blocks using the Loctite Adhesive, and the caulking gun. Apply the adhesive lightly.
Press the corner blocks firmly against the wall and hold it there for a few seconds until a good solid bond has been made. It will not take long at all. You can then tape them to the wall with the painters tape to ensure they do not move as you continue to work.
Allow these corner blocks to fully dry for at least 24 hours.
The following day take your tape measure to measure out how many feet of the polyurethane molding you will need on each wall.
Once you have your measurements, if you need cuts use a thin blade hacksaw for straight lined cuts. The poly material is very easy to cut, and it takes little to no effort to get a good straight cut. You can also use a saw if you prefer, but the hacksaw is cheaper and does the trick.
Once you have your cuts you can now take your molding back into your room and apply the Loctite adhesive to the back areas where the material will meet the wall and ceiling. Firmly and carefully press the molding into place and hold it there for a few moments. You can use the painters tape again to ensure that the molding does not slip out of place.
Work your way around the room until it is all up.
After everything has dried you can now seal the seams using the caulk gun and caulking. Work your way around the bottom seam of the molding and the top seam. Use your finger to slide across it for a neat bond.
After that is finished drying you can now Spackle any seam cuts or gaps on the molding using the Spackle gun and caulking gun to apply it. Use your finger to smooth out the Spackle.
Allow it to dry for 24 hours and then you can begin your painting!
It is very easy, very cheap, and looks so beautiful when you actually paint it to your preference.
The thing I found that I liked better about poly molding in place of wood molding is that it will never crack, expand, shrink, or sag. It is not porous like wood, and it will last a heck of a lot longer, for a heck of a lot less money!
After all was said and done, my cost was about $250.00 for a full bathroom, 33 linear feet total. The poly molding was $150.00, and the cost of tools added on about another $100.00 or less.
Honestly, that is why I ended up going with a polyurethane crown molding to finish my bathroom with. Not only was it cheaper, but I had such a large selection of molding designs that there was no way I was turning back and going with a more bland cut section of wood. Not when I could save a ton of money, and get a detailed look that seemed far more classy than wood had to offer.
Working with poly crown molding is also a heck of a lot easier, and there is no nailing required at all. If you buy yourself corner blocks for the room as well, you can eliminate any difficult 45 degree angle miter cuts. This is exactly what I did, and putting the molding up too less than an hour.
So you are likely thinking of doing the same thing, otherwise why would you be here?
Here is what you will need in order to install your polyurethane crown molding:
You will need a tape measure
You will need Spackle
You will need Caulk
You will need a Spackle knife
You will need Loctite Power Grab Adhesive
You will need a caulking gun (to be used for your power grab adhesive tube)
You will need corner blocks to eliminate miter cuts and save yourself the need to have to cut the molding in a 45 degree angle.
You will need some painters tape
You will need a hacksaw with a thin blade
How to Install:
First and foremost you will want to install your wall corner blocks. You can purchase low priced polyurethane corner blocks online. Make sure you buy enough to add to each corner. Count your interior corners, and exterior corners in order to ensure you have enough blocks.
Install the corner blocks using the Loctite Adhesive, and the caulking gun. Apply the adhesive lightly.
Press the corner blocks firmly against the wall and hold it there for a few seconds until a good solid bond has been made. It will not take long at all. You can then tape them to the wall with the painters tape to ensure they do not move as you continue to work.
Allow these corner blocks to fully dry for at least 24 hours.
The following day take your tape measure to measure out how many feet of the polyurethane molding you will need on each wall.
Once you have your measurements, if you need cuts use a thin blade hacksaw for straight lined cuts. The poly material is very easy to cut, and it takes little to no effort to get a good straight cut. You can also use a saw if you prefer, but the hacksaw is cheaper and does the trick.
Once you have your cuts you can now take your molding back into your room and apply the Loctite adhesive to the back areas where the material will meet the wall and ceiling. Firmly and carefully press the molding into place and hold it there for a few moments. You can use the painters tape again to ensure that the molding does not slip out of place.
Work your way around the room until it is all up.
After everything has dried you can now seal the seams using the caulk gun and caulking. Work your way around the bottom seam of the molding and the top seam. Use your finger to slide across it for a neat bond.
After that is finished drying you can now Spackle any seam cuts or gaps on the molding using the Spackle gun and caulking gun to apply it. Use your finger to smooth out the Spackle.
Allow it to dry for 24 hours and then you can begin your painting!
It is very easy, very cheap, and looks so beautiful when you actually paint it to your preference.
The thing I found that I liked better about poly molding in place of wood molding is that it will never crack, expand, shrink, or sag. It is not porous like wood, and it will last a heck of a lot longer, for a heck of a lot less money!
After all was said and done, my cost was about $250.00 for a full bathroom, 33 linear feet total. The poly molding was $150.00, and the cost of tools added on about another $100.00 or less.
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